(Day 5) The Neighbourhood Wanderer

>> Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Wednesday in Wonderland. Today I must be brave and venture into areas I’ve never been before, armed only with my map and a compass. Sounds a bit like orienteering, doesn’t it? The terrain and environment is highly unfamiliar and I’m left only to my own wits. Never one to back down from a logistical challenge in this country, half the fun is getting lost and wandering some back roads, pretending I live here and know where I’m going. Since Chisato’s boyfriend recommended Nakameguro, I planned to start there and route through Daikanyama and wind up in Shibuya. That’s a hefty walk, so I must get my carbs in first.

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Last time I headed down to Daikanyama, Mayuko and I got very mixed up trying to catch the correct train on the Toyoko lines, so I was a bit worried. The labelling on these lines is almost completely in Japanese, so I took a gamble on a train parked at Shibuya and I ended up lucky.

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Okay, so from here, I didn’t know at all which way to go. I guess I was expecting the very trendiness of the area to show me the way with lights and signs, or possibly just a slew of cool shops, one after the other. The area was very relaxed with not a building out of the ordinary. It had a unique vibe, but when you don’t know where to go and the shops are very sporadic, this place is likely best if you are already hooked up with those familiar with the neighbourhood.

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You can always count on a convenience store when you are lost and in need of refreshments. Time for an early lunch (courtesy of 7-and-i Holdings – commonly known in North America as 7-11.)

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As I am once again alone and without a home or funds for a restaurant, I’m stuck with trying to find a quiet spot to eat without the judging eyes of the passing public. Oh no! This is beginning to be a real issue. I strolled up and down the streets in the immediate vicinity of the store and then headed further out, but ended up on a freeway…whoops. I ended up coming back down and decided I was going to examine the contents of a nearby vending machine while eating. Then I can avoid the glares of the passersby while pretending I’m going to buy something. As I was stuffing down my rice ball, I realized that some of the drivel they put on these bottles was flipping ridiculous:

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”Deliciousness and energies invented by fermentation make a busy adult energetic.”

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”Enjoy the benefits of fresh-tasting mineral water rich in natural vanadium.”
Because I was just saying the other day how my vanadium was low.

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”A coexistence of deep-roasted beans and roasted-milk, for relaxing time”
Is it just me, or did they rip off Suntory? And…how does one “roast milk”?

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”A health fizzy drink, increasing the vitality of men going all-out every day.”
I’m so not all about the men-only food and drinks here. This bevvy must be for all those salarymen that steal the seats on the train from old ladies and girls in towering heels.

Time to explore the ‘hood; this will take some work. As much as I just want to walk right by places that look like stores with only a salesperson inside, I know that if I do, I’m not giving this place a chance. I’m that easily intimidated. I try to get past myself.

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A peculiar name for a hair salon, that’s for sure. Is this really where gravure models go? Considering it’s all blocked out, I wonder…

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I can see why Chisato’s boyfriend directed me here…most of the shops I find are for those Japanese hipster men who grow scraggly facial hair and covet, like, vintage army boots and stuff. It’s cool – no question – but possibly too cool for me.

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Eventually I began my journey northward into Daikanyama, which though is just across a train overpass, has yet another distinct feel. I’ve been here before and made another visit to the ever-dorky, chotchkie-filled store “Outlet”.

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One of the many goods at “Outlet”…a gun cup! How rad. I almost bought it for Marty.

Sometimes one stumbles upon stores that border on bizarre in their décor – I found this particular one a few blocks off the main road which specialized in vintage clothes and t-shirts. It was downstairs even! I’m getting ballsy.

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Along with trendiness comes higher prices for little-known brands. I wasn’t prepared to fork out $70 for a deconstructed t-shirt or hoodie with a giant animated creature on it, so I kept on with my journey up to Shibuya. After ending up in some residential area with construction workers staring at me as I passed, I realized that I might have taken a detour from my map. I just kept heading north though and funnily enough, after emerging from a quiet street, I found Shibuya station and hubbub pulsating before me.

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I even saw Janelle’s boyfriend on a billboard!

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Shibuya is always pure madness at the quietest hour and staring down Center Gai in the late afternoon validated this.

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O hai NEWS!

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These cakes are insanely delicious! I realize it looks like bread, but it’s so much more…and how much does it cost? ‘Priceless’ *rotfl*

Okay, it’s crepe time. I nearly missed my chance today! Inexcusable. I was just checking the menu board and some teenagers cut in front of me. Grr! I gave them the nasty foreigner glare, but I don’t think it did much good.

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I passed the Tower Records store and headed inside to buy this:

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I love Eito…but their damn single was over $15. WTF Johnny? I turned tail and left.

Did some shopping at Parco but since I’m not into fluffy pink bags and can’t afford $600 CdG cardigans, I kept the Erin train rolling along.

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Um…yes, this is another gratuitous NEWS photo. I can’t help myself.

I saw a sign directing me that there was cheap, used designer goods up on the fifth floor of some building…and I was sucked in. I’m impressing myself with my bravery because really…you have no idea who is on the other side of that elevator door when it opens.

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It was a tiny little shop staffed by a Japanese man with fluffy blonde hair. I departed quickly since they only sold men’s goods.

Shibuya a night is a dazzling sight for the eyes. Literally – dazzling.



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There was some kind of strange exhibit in front of the 109 department store promoting tourism in Australia…but this guy doesn’t really make me want to go:

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I picked up some more convenience store food and began my likely-damn-near-impossible task of finding a solitary place to eat.

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As it turns out, it was remarkably easy to locate a spot…right in front of a love hotel down a back alley. Awesome! I situated myself in front of one of the windows at the Shibuya Crystal and happily downed another rice ball. This is genius. It’s too early for the patrons to be coming and going frequently.

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Yes, that’s only $80 for 30 minutes between 8AM-noon. Yikes! The prices vary with different times of the day and duration…$180 for 60 minutes between midnight and 8AM? Sexytimes don’t come cheap.

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The view from my meal spot. Love the blow-up snowman.

Rejoining society, I took in the last remnants of Shibuya before packing it up for the day.

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Of course, no blog about Shibuya would be complete with a video showing the entirety of the ever-famous Shibuya pedestrian crossing:



Arriving back at home station, I decided to go exploring and try to find the dollar store when I can buy an inordinate supply of Chocoflake – my new favourite treat. Of course, I get lost, but it’s not without it’s own rewards of serenity…

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My favourite picture of the day.

Defying the rules of gender in Japan, I go ahead and buy a ‘Men’s Selection’ bag of chips.

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I’m surprised they let me buy it. As it turns out, they are really tasty and smoky.

Dinner is another of Tomoko’s delicious creations again and I couldn’t be more happy to get so stuffed in one day.

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I don’t deserve such good things – but I’ll take them anyway. Tomorrow I get to meet up with my delightful friend Mayuko for dinner, but first I will explore the mecca of Shinjuku. There is always more to see than what has been seen, so of course more pictures lie ahead…I’ll try to be more funny and clever tomorrow.